Land in Lombok: Bukit Batu Layar – the Hill

Building an International Community in Lombok


A little history. I am an Australian teacher and educational consultant. In 1992 I moved to Indonesia and I have been living here ever since. I am not a businessman. I know little about investment or land development – but I do know about lifestyle, I care about the environment and I have grown to love Indonesia and the island of Lombok.

Something about the combination of chaos and order, diversity and simplicity, tradition and modernity, beauty and ambiguity makes Indonesia an irresistible place to live. That, and the opportunity to contribute to the development of a young and growing country. A country that has experienced its share of growing pains for sure, but is also full of hope and promise – and wonderful people.

Having moved around from Kalimantan (Borneo) to Jakarta and West Java, my wife and I moved to Lombok in 1999 where we were invited to help establish a school for the small international community living in Mataram and along the coastal area to the west. The school, Sekolah Nusa Alam, is thriving - and we have made Lombok our home in Indonesia. The island lies just to the east of Bali and is known for its traditional mix of Sasak and Balinese culture, its superb beaches and laid-back lifestyle, and Mount Rinjani, the highest volcano in Indonesia.

With a young family, it was not long before we started looking into buying land and thinking about building a home. Early on we settled on the idea of buying on a hill rather than in the city or on the beach. The beachfront land is beautiful, yes. But it is becoming scarce and expensive. Something about the idea of living up on the hill with fresh air, clean space and wide views appealed. Around this time we met up with a fellow traveler, Andrew from Zimbabwe (or Ireland – I’m still not sure which). We started exploring together the beautiful green hills behind the resort area of Senggigi and along the coast.

In 2000 we began individually acquiring blocks of land up the hill which is now known a Bukit Batu Layar or, simply, ‘The Hill’. The land was mainly in local hands, almost none of it certificated by the government. Purchasing meant learning the local land laws along with local customs and ways of doing things. Some was owned by Sasak farmers, some by Balinese communities (banjar) and one or two blocks by Chinese businessmen. As each block was purchased we went through the process of legally establishing ownership and obtaining a freehold title under Indonesian law.

At the time we couldn’t afford to purchase much land – so we turned to our friends from around the world and invited them to join us. Initially six decided to take the risk – all Australians who had some experience with Lombok and were now living and working elsewhere. For each one we arranged the purchase of a block from the local owners. And together with Andrew we funded the building of a road and basic infrastructure. Along the way, various others have bought in and some blocks have changed hands – there are now Belgian, German, Irish, Australian, American, French, Danish, Singaporean and local Indonesians buying and building on ‘the Hill’.

Most of the land was used for cultivating coconut palms, bamboo, mango or cassava. Local cattle and goats graze on the slopes. Many of those who sold have now bought land that is cheaper and more suitable for farming elsewhere. And the villagers who still farm and live on the higher slopes now have a road and some access to water two kilometers up the hill, where previously there was none. Many have been employed in the development and many more will be employed in the future.

From the outset we agreed on a concept for the development of the Hill. We all wanted essentially the same thing, a sensitively developed environment which is clean and green and where both the natural and social contexts are respected. We found a local contractor who understood our collective needs and together designed and built a well-engineered road system with proper drainage and attractive planting. Here Andrew’s expertise as a former farmer came to the fore. At the same time, every block has been bought and is owned individually. There is no corporate body – so what is emerging is a community of individuals and families who loosely share a vision for good living. An international community in Lombok.

We all contribute to the modest costs of maintaining the road and drains. Electricity is now available with cabling along the road - and underground for the top blocks. Many blocks have water. Others are putting in bores. Telephone and internet access is not a problem; ‘Flexi’ phone technology dispenses with the need for cables. A number of architect-designed tropical villas have appeared on the Hill in the last year or two and more are planned. Open air living, with open-to-sky rooms and ‘infinity pools’ making the most of the views and cool breezes is the norm. Roofs are tiled, shingled or thatched with local alang-alang grass. Each home is an individual expression. Each is the product of local craftsmanship. Some have built holiday villas, some family homes and some small bungalows for short-term rental. And for those who have not yet built – there is always the option of putting up a baruqa; a small, open-sided and thatched structure where you can relax in the local way and enjoy the view. Much of the land is terraced and planted with green ground covers (Singapore daisy) and vetiver grass to prevent erosion. Some blocks retain the slope of the hill and the original planting. Shady rain-trees and royal palms line the road. A green system for filtering waste water into planted ponds which will double as bird refuges is planned.

The Hill, itself, is of course its own attraction. Rising high above the coast it offers huge views - 360° from along the ridge. To the north we look up to wooded foothills and toward the peak of Rinjani, hidden for most of the time in cloud. To the east we look over the provincial city of Mataram to the hazy central plains of Lombok. To the south the view is across the southern beaches and to the islands and bays of South Lombok. And to the west, the most stunning views of all take in the lower hills, coconut groves and coastal bays with the little Balinese temple of Batu Bolong in the foreground, and across the Senggigi surf break and the Lombok straits beyond to the sacred Mount Agung on the neighbouring island of Bali. In the mornings with the sun in the east, the wide bay is studded with colourful sails as Lombok’s traditional fishing fleet returns with the night’s catch. In the evenings the sun sets over Bali behind Mount Agung in the west. With night, the lamps of wooden fishing craft scattered across the dark ocean mirror the stars overhead.

The restaurants, beaches and bars of Senggigi are only five minutes away and the airport a fifteen minute drive in the other direction. Sekolah Nusa Alam, the school we helped establish, now provides international schooling to children in a beautiful facility five minutes up the road. The local markets and grocery shops nearby offer most of what you need. Mataram, around fifteen minutes away, now boasts a shopping mall, western style supermarket and fast food outlets, local medical facilities and banks. Lombok is indeed a beautiful and cheap place to live – and direct flights shuttle back and forth daily from Jakarta and Bali plus four times a week from Singapore. Construction has recently begun on a large international airport and five-star tourist resort area at Kuta in the south of Lombok.

So – with land prices still relatively cheap (around 10% to 20% of what you might expect to pay in Bali where, incidentally, there are no views to rival ours!) why not join us? As I began by saying, I am not by nature a businessman or developer. But my wife and I do have land to sell – and we know the local laws and can arrange a local notary or professional real-estate agent to facilitate a purchase. Take a look at the photos on our gallery – or post a comment with your email address if you have a genuine interest.

Mark Heyward